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| sequencing |
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Application:
For negotiating short drops without
permanent anchors. Useful when time constraints
prohibit time-consuming anchor building or
where no obvious anchors exist.
Fig. 1.
Setting the Anchor
"Sequencing" means sending down
the heaviest or least capable downclimbers
down first, leaving the lightest or best downclimber
to come down last. This person can sit and
anchor the rappel line, either by clipping
directly into the rope, or by threading the
rope through their belay device. We prefer
the latter, since it allows the anchor person
the latitude to gently lower the rappeler
if they are too heavy, if they slip and fall,
or simply to change wear points on the rope.
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Fig. 2.
After the intial "anchor person"
attaches to the rope, the remaining members
of the descent team can ballast the anchor
person by sitting in front of them or sitting
behind them and clipping into a climbing-rated
attachment point on the anchor person's
harness with a short sling. This added security
will allow even very large people to rappel
safely from human anchors.
In the photo shown, the anchor person is
clipped into the rope while the rappeler
descends. Larry is demonstrating the front-ballasting
option, while (not in frame) other team
members have clipped into the anchor person
from behind. |
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Fig. 3.
When properly executed, fully loaded canyoneers
can rappel vertically or even free-hanging
safely.
Here Sandra is rappelling from the human
anchor shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. |
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Fig. 3. Ideally,
the lightest member of the party should be
the second-to-last to descend, as only the
anchor person will be able to ballast them.
If there is no way for the final person to
adequately anchor a rappel, the second to
last person may be able to downclimb with
a partial belay and the assistance of spotters
below.
The final canyoneer must be capable of downclimbing
the final drop. This is referred to this as
LAMAR (LAst Man At Risk). Possibilities may
be further extended with the use of dedicated
spotting, thigh belays, or plunges if water
is adequate. Situations may also allow downcanyon
canyoneers to exit the canyon and anchor the
final descender from above (check out this
diagram at Tom's
Latest Rave for a good example of this). |
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| All material © Cerberus
Canyons, LLP 2004-2005 | Disclaimer
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