Online Technical Canyoneering Resource for Utah Slots,
the Colorado Plateau and Beyond
Cedar Mesa, Capitol Reef, Escalante, Dirty Devil, Glen
Canyon, Moab, North Wash, San Rafael, & Zion
Purpose: To
block one side of the rope for a single line
rappel using a figure eight in a releasable
configuration.
Application: Any situation that calls
for single line technique where releasability
is desirable (rappels into pools, current,
over sharp edges, etc.)
Fig. 1. Thread the rope through the
rapide at the anchor.
Fig. 2. Thread
the rope through a figure eight as shown (on
the right strand). The left strand is the
rappel strand. When the eight is allowed to
block against the rapide, a person anchored
on the left strand can be lowered by a belayer
tensioning the right strand.
Fig. 3. Now
we need to "lock off" the contingency.
Grasp a bight of rope as shown.
Fig. 4. Pull
this bight up and through the large hole of
the figure eight as shown.
Fig. 5. Twist
the bight clockwise as shown.
Fig. 6. Pull
the twisted bight over the small head of the
figure eight and dress the rigging by pulling
tightly on all strands.
Fig. 7.
As a safety, clip the small head of the
figure eight into the anchor. A canyon quickdraw
is handy for this as it allows you enough
slack to unclip the safety and release the
anchor if neccessary - clipping the eight
directly to the anchor may place enough
tension on the carabiner as to make it difficult
to unclip the safety.
To release the contingency, unclip the safety,
unhook the twisted bight from the small
head of the figure eight (while preparing
to tension the belay strand!) and you are
ready to lower the rappel strand safely.
