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| joining two ropes
/ euro death knot |
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Purpose: To
tie one rope to another
Application: Used to join two rappelling
ropes for a double strand rappel, or joining
a single rappeling strand to a thinner retreival
cord.
References: There has been much discussion
and research as to the merits of assorted
knots; you can peruse these (Chockstone,
Needlesports,
Tom
Moyer, Bushwalkers)
at your leisure. Also check out the ACA
Thread.
Fig. 1 - Joining two rappel strands:
Many prefer an overhand knot (aka Euro Death
Knot), leaving a 12"-18" tail. Experience
and research has shown this to be a strong
knot that provides easy & clean rope pulls.
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Single overhand knot joining two ropes |
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Fig. 2 - Always double
the overhand!
Though the EDK is considered a very
solid knot, they do have a tendency to roll
under very high loads. Tieing a second overhand
knot, cinched up closely to the first overhand
knot, will prevent this. Make sure to leave
a minimum of 6-8" of tail (We prefer
12" where possible).
It is absolutely essential that the size of
the rapide be small enough that the knot will
not stick or pull through, especially if rappeling
single strand. If there is any doubt, rig
a biner
block.
Also, if the crotch of your overhand hangs
up in the rapide, it will be very difficult
to initiate the rope pull. |
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Double overhand knot with 6-8" tail |
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Fig. 2 - Rope Pulls:
As noted above,
overhand knots have been know to "roll"
under load, suprisingly low loads in some
circumstances. Tieing the second overhand
knot provides a safety against this possibility,
without compromising the knot's ability to
"flip" to its smooth edge when encountering
obstructions.
The Overhand and the Double Fisherman are
both adequate for joining ropes of different
diameters, though it is important to dress
the knot well (i.e. tightening all strands,
assuring the knot has been tied properly).
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Overhand knot pulled cleanly over an obstructive
edge |
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Fig. 3: For
instances where there are no obstructions
for the rope pull, a double fisherman's knot
is an acceptable method. A retraced figure
eight (Flemish Bend) is another proven option.
Be careful using these knots if there are
any possiblities of hang-ups on the rope pull.
The name "Euro Death Knot" comes
from its introduction to the US in the 1980s.
Fast, proficient climbers from Europe would
tie the EDK, rappel, and be drinking beer
at the Mountain Room Bar while the stodgy
old American climbers were still tying their
double-fisherman's. When shown the faster
knot, the Americans would say, "You rappel
on that? Death!" |
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Double Fisherman's knot catching on an edge |
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| All material © Cerberus
Canyons, LLP 2004-2005 | Disclaimer
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